Himalayas Climbing Expedition: Cholatse Summit Journey

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Written by ej
Last updated March 7, 2025 9:50 am.

In November, a small team of four embarked on a challenging expedition to summit Cholatse, a striking and non-commercial peak in the Himalayas. The team consisted of expedition leader Swifty, along with Charlie, Chaz, and EJ. 

About Cholatse 

Cholatse (6,440m) is a technical and demanding peak located in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Unlike the more popular commercial mountains, Cholatse sees far fewer climbers, making it a remote and adventurous challenge. Its steep faces, knife-edged ridges, and unpredictable conditions require solid mountaineering experience and careful acclimatisation. Learn more about our other treks in the Himalayas here.

Acclimatisation and Trekking Approach

Our acclimatisation strategy was well-planned, ensuring a slow and steady ascent. The expedition began with a flight into Lukla, followed by:

  • Day 1: Trek to Phakding (2,800m).

  • Day 2: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3,440m).

  • Day 3: Acclimatisation day at Namche Bazaar, which included an informative hike to the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC). The SPCC plays a crucial role in preserving the fragile environment of the Everest region by promoting waste management and sustainable trekking practices.

  • Day 4: Trek to Dole (4,200m).

  • Day 5: Trek to Machermo (4,450m).

  • Day 6: Trek to Gokyo (4,750m).

  • Day 7: Acclimatisation day with a pre-dawn trek to Gokyo Ri (5,357m) for breathtaking views of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu. After breakfast, we crossed the Ngozumpa Glacier to Thagnak (4,750m), where we met our three climbing sherpas.

The Team and Support Crew

Our trekking guide, Sundar, was a kind and knowledgeable companion throughout the journey. At Thagnak, we were joined by our climbing sherpa team, led by the experienced Gairlou, with Tenzig and Angtashi providing crucial support. Their expertise, strength, and unwavering kindness were invaluable to our success.

Himalayas Cholatse 3

Establishing Basecamp

We reached Cholatse Basecamp after a short trek from Thagnak, spending a total of 11 days there. The valley was remote and serene, with no signal and just two other teams present upon our arrival. By the time we departed, we were the last team on the mountain.

Early in our stay, we completed acclimatisation walks, including a trek to Advanced Basecamp and an overnight stay at Camp 1. Rest days were strategically placed to allow recovery and adaptation.

Summit Push

When a favourable weather window finally arrived, we made our summit bid. We ascended to Camp 1 and spent the night, preparing for the demanding climb ahead. At 1:30 am, we woke and made our final preparations before setting off at 3:00 am. The climb was gruelling, requiring technical skill and endurance as we navigated the steep, icy slopes. By midday, we reached the summit, taking in awe-inspiring views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks. After a brief rest at the top, we began our descent, carefully retracing our steps. Exhausted but exhilarated, we arrived back at Camp 1 by 7:00 pm, where we spent another night before making our way back to Basecamp.

The Return Journey

After one final day at Basecamp, we began our trek out via Dole and Namche Bazaar. The incredible support from our Sherpas, porters, and cooks ensured our safety and comfort throughout the expedition. Their kindness, experience, and dedication played an essential role in our success.

Following the trek, we flew back to Kathmandu, spending a few days reflecting on the journey before departing Nepal. The Cholatse expedition was a testament to teamwork, careful planning, and the extraordinary beauty of the region. For more insights into climbing in the Himalayas, visit this page.

Himalayas Cholatse 5
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Himalayas Cholatse 1