Pitch 1 (5A, 27m)
Moonraker’s first pitch begins from a hanging belay just above the high-water mark, accessible via a 60m abseil rope. From the belay, make a diagonal traverse right to reach a slight rib marked by an old peg. Move around the rib to a steep crack with excellent handholds, and climb it up to a chockstone. Traverse leftwards across the wall to a ledge stance at the base of a corner-crack—a perfect position to soak in the ocean views.
Pitch 2 (4c, 17m)
Start the second pitch by climbing up the corner to where the rock steepens. Head left across the wall to a comfortable stance on a pedestal to build the belay. This section, though technically easier, demands precision and adds excitement to the climb.
Pitch 3 (5a, 32m)
The final pitch is the highlight of Moonraker, offering sustained climbing with an exciting finish. Begin by moving right to a steep corner-crack, climbing up on good holds. Near the top, the crack eases, but the route isn’t over yet. Move left into a smooth-walled corner-crack, where a mix of jamming and layback techniques will guide you to the summit. A large metal pole at the top provides a reliable belay anchor.
Important Considerations for Moonraker
Moonraker is a tidal route, with its start positioned just above the high-water line. This means timing and tide awareness are essential. Additionally, Berry Head enforces a bird nesting restriction from 1st March to 31st July. Climbing is prohibited during this period to protect local wildlife and ensure continued access to this stunning crag.
The Moonraker Experience
Climbing Moonraker is a true adventure, with the sound of waves crashing below and the breathtaking coastal scenery. It’s a hard rock route in Devon that appeals to seasoned climbers seeking both challenge and beauty. The steep holds, unique exposure, and historical significance make it an unforgettable addition to any climber’s experience in the UK.
Why Moonraker Is a Must-Do Hard Rock Route in Devon
For climbers seeking a quintessential hard rock route in Devon, Moonraker delivers with its thrilling position, technical climbing, and classic appeal. From the hanging belay to the crack-laden summit finish, it’s an experience that highlights Devon’s coastal climbing at its finest.
