Climbers’ Club Ordinary

Climbers’ Club Ordinary (VS 4b) is a Classic Rock Climb found at the Dewerstone on Dartmoor, Devon. Recently, three members of the team from Adelong climbed this together.

The Devil’s Rock

The Devil’s Rock is a sheer wall of nearly 200ft and is the most significant exposure of granite on Dartmoor. The Dewerstone offers some of the finest climbing in Devon and is nestled in its valley somewhat secretively, trees masking it from view. The approach to the rock climbing at the Dewerstone is delightful, through half a mile of oak woodlands overlooking the flowing Plym.

Climbers’ Club Ordinary follows the only obvious line of weakness up the Devil’s Rock’s otherwise unrelenting main face. It is the easiest way up the Dewerstone’s most impressive face, giving an enjoyable series of pitches.

Climbers’ Club Ordinary – The first pitch

The climbing begins with a bold traverse up and left across a steep wall. This pitch is quite serious, and care should be taken when selecting a line. The difficulties become magnified if your feet accidentally end up on the wrong set of holds! Follow the dubious line of flakes leftwards until an overhanging roof prevents further progress. Navigating this block is the crux of this delightful climb (in this humble author’s opinion).

BETA ALERT! For those not wanting to know how to make the next move, skip over this paragraph. The move involves blindly reaching right around the corner of the overhang. Thankfully a well-polished jug turns up just as you need it! Another few moves up and left, and you reach the bollard that makes a fine belay.

Climbers’ Club Ordinary – The second pitch

The second pitch of Climbers’ Club Ordinary begins up a smooth and steep V-groove with another overhang at its top. It seems preposterous at first glance, the smooth rock appearing as if it will offer little for the feet, but once you get started, the moves are rather delightful. Big cams (silver and blue) come in quite handy here! After bridging past this on the right, you’ll encounter a smooth crack. You may or may not come across a purple cam here. If so, it’s mine, and you’re welcome! I made the unfortunate mistake of setting it too far back into the crack, and then it walked further back as I pulled the rope up. Charlie and Zoe spent nearly an hour between them trying to rescue it. Sadly, it was simply too stuck! RIP, loyal purple ‘Friend’!

After following this widening crack to a niche, you’ll reach a delightful leftward traverse. Follow this until you reach the ledge at the bottom of the final pitch.

Climbers’ Club Ordinary – The third pitch

Climbers’ Club Ordinary finishes up a corner with a narrow crack for the fingers on the left and small bulges for the feet to the right on the slabby wall. This corner works quite nicely as a layback, though much too soon, these moves are over—transition to use the left wall for bridging when the moves become thinner. A step to the right will see you pull over onto the summit. 

From here, belay whilst enjoying the stunning views of the oaks below and hear the sound of the River Plym.

Rock Climbing Courses in Devon

Rock Climbing Courses in Devon, Dartmoor and Cornwall. We deliver bespoke climbing courses to suit your individual needs and aspirations. Develop your skills, learn to lead, multi-pitch and guided climbing on some of the classic routes…For more information please get in touch to arrange a tailor-made course.